I've already written a caresheet for P.magnifica, which you can read here. This sheet is for the rest of the Pseudoglomeris spp. in culture, most of which are temperate Chinese species.
Housing:
A one gallon container will work well for a starter colony, they can then be moved to a larger enclosure as they start breeding. This genus generally enjoys a good amount of of verticality, so keep that in mind when picking out an enclosure. An airtight lid is suggested, as all life stages can climb smooth surfaces, and males of most species can fly. A climbing barrier such as silicone oil can be used around the upper rim of their setup, but it's possible small nymphs could get trapped and drown in such barriers, so make sure the barrier is only a thin coating.
A thin layer of substrate should be provided, such as coconut fiber or peat moss. Plenty of hides in the form of curved hardwood or cork bark slabs slanted against each other, cork hollows, and perhaps small rotten logs with holes bored into them should be provided. This genus seems to prefer thicker bark with lots of large cracks and crevices, pockets and dents in it, with cork being their favorite. I've noticed cottonwood bark works pretty good as well.
This genus does enjoy climbing and most species are rather arboreal, so they'll appreciate you arranging their hides to be vertically slanted, and/or adding climbing branches to their setup.
In terms of humidity, it seems most species seem to do like low surface moisture but high air humidity, and so do best when only a third of the enclosure is kept moist, with light mistings every few days if your air humidity is particularly low. They should be given a moderate to high amount of cross ventilation, as good airflow seems to be pretty important to this genus. Stuffy, stagnant air appears to greatly slow down reproduction, but too much airflow combined with abysmal air humidity can also cause issues.
Diet:
A staple diet of dog/cat/fish food, fresh fruits, along with pollen or artificial pollen works best for this genus. In general, most of the black species are more generalist in terms of diet, whereas the brighter colored (and often metallic) species tend to be palynivores in the wild, which will greatly benefit from having pollen available 24/7, as well as fruits. But all species seem to have a sweet tooth, so I'd at least offer fruits to all of them, if not pollen as well to be safe.
Temperature:
Most of the Pseudoglomeris in culture (besides P.tarsalis and P.v.valida) come from temperate China, and so do best when kept in the 75-85F° range through Spring, Summer and much of Fall. However, they also need a winter diapause, normally starting in November and ending February, at around 60-65F° to thrive.
Pseudoglomeris beybeinkoi in particular appears to be very heat sensitive, and doesn't even like their Summer temps to rise much above 77F°.
The few tropical species in culture like P.tarsalis, P.v.valida, etc. should just be kept in the 75-85F° range year round, no dispause needed.
Breeding/Life cycle:
Adult males typically live for at least 6-8 months under optimal conditions, with females often living twice as long. Females gestate for around 3-4 months under optimal conditions, depending on clutch size, giving birth once or twice a year (however, gestation times can be doubled or even tripled if kept too cool, too humid, fed improperly, if not given enough ventilation, or if put through any number of other stressors). Normal sized litters contains roughly 15-20 nymphs, which then take 8-11 months to mature, depending on diet and temperature.
Newborn nymphs tend to stay near adult females for at least one molt, and the females display a level of maternal care, usually shielding the nymphs with their bodies when disturbed.
Newborn nymphs tend to stay near adult females for at least one molt, and the females display a level of maternal care, usually shielding the nymphs with their bodies when disturbed.
This genus can be sensitive to pest infestations, and likely high numbers of isopods and large prolific springtails, (like Coecobrya sp. "Tropical Pink", Entomobrya unostrigata, etc.). Additionally, like Perisphaerus, Pseudoglomeris don't eat their shed skins, which are quite thick, so to keep things hygienic the top layer of substrate should probably be removed and replaced every now and then.
Species Notes:
Pseudoglomeris aerea:
A beautiful species with a slight metallic green sheen, covered in silvery-green hairs, and sporting reflective silver "mirror spots" on the abdomens of females and nymphs. Typical Pseudoglomeris care, and being a temperate mountainous Chinese species, they need a winter diapause, and seem to prefer temps not much higher than 75-77F° in the Summer.
Pseudoglomeris angustifolia:
This species and Pseudoglomeris semisulcata (both members of the subgenus Glomerexis) are very unique for Pseudoglomeris in having brachyapterous males.
Sadly angustifolia is not in culture anymore, but from what I can gather they have pretty standard Pseudoglomeris care, however no one ever took into account their mountainous Chinese origins, and never gave them a diapause (which they clearly need), leading to them fizzling out in culture consistently after a generation or two.
Pseudoglomeris beybeinkoi:
One of the most finicky Pseudoglomeris species, and yet the one collected and exported from Asia the most aside from magnifica. These are often mislabeled AS magnifica, because they are also a beautiful metallic green color. However they differ from magnifica by being much smaller, having a much smoother, glossier exoskeleton, and in having a darker coloration overall.
In addition to being a temperate Chinese species that needs a winter diapause, this species is quite heat sensitive even in the summer, and doesn't seem to like temperatures much above 77F° for prolonged periods of time. Humidity fluctuations can also apparently cause die offs, overall a very unforgiving species.
Pseudoglomeris montana:
A dark green, metallic species, this species is not a heat hardy one, and prefers cool temperatures year round, and a cold winter diapause.
Pseudoglomeris nigra:
A glossy black species hailing from Taiwan and Japan, seemingly not needing a diapause. Sadly not in culture in the West, but apparently a rather protein hungry species, with typical Pseudoglomeris care.
Pseudoglomeris planiuscula:
A large matte black species, basically like larger, temperate Chinese P.tarsalis. Typical Pseudoglomeris care.
Pseudoglomeris sculpta:
A velvety, grey-green species with a very highly textured, sculpted exoskeleton. Seems to have standard Chinese Pseudoglomeris temperature and care requirements.
Pseudoglomeris semisulcata:
Like the closely related P.angustifolia, males of this species are brachyapterous. Seems to be a rather easy temperate Chinese species to culture, typical care for this genus.
Pseudoglomeris tarsalis:
A semi-glossy black species, probably the longest cultured Pseudoglomeris. These hail from tropical Thailand, and thus prefer warm temperatures year round, no diapause needed. One of the more prolific Pseudoglomeris species, with nymphs growing rather fast as well.
Pseudoglomeris valida moderata:
A glossy black species from temperate China, with typical care for this genus.
Pseudoglomeris valida valida:
This subspecies of P.valida hails from Vietnam, and thus doesn't appear to require a dispause. Care seems to be standard for the genus.
Pseudoglomeris sp. "Dazhou, Sichuan":
An unidentified and possibly undescribed species, the nymphs are a beautiful red wine color up until adulthood. Care is typical for a temperate Chinese species.
