For a starter culture, I'd recommend an enclosure no larger than half a gallon to a gallon, depend on on the size of the species in question. A gallon enclosure will work well as a permanent enclosure for most of the smaller species, with larger ones like dasytoides maybe preferring something like a 5 gallon bin large colonies. Adults of both sexes can climb, and males can fly, so a tight lid is recommended. High ventilation is very important for this genus, otherwise adults can be prone to random fungal infections.
1-2 inches of substrate should be provided, preferably coconut fiber, potting soil, sphagnum peat, etc.. On top of the substrate, you should also provide a 1-2 inch layer of decaying hardwood leaf litter, this seems to be rather important for this genus.
No hides are needed, as nymphs and adult females spend most of their time underground, and adults will usually burrow if frightened, especially females. However, some branches and such for the males to climb around on during the day might be appreciated, and I've oddly found that adults and nymphs really like hiding inside partially buried paper towel tubes (perhaps it simulates the inside of a tree hollow, which is a known natural micro-habitat for this genus).
These roaches prefer a humidity gradient, with a quarter to a third of the substrate being kept humid, and the rest dry. Both vertical or horizontal gradients probably work, personally I usually opt for horizontal gradients, but it's up to you. Their ooths prefer more humid conditions, and are often laid on the humid side.
Diet:
Dog/cat/chick feed should serve as the staple diet for nymphs, along with leaf litter. Pollen/artificial pollen is also eaten readily by nymphs, as well as adults. Adults especially love fresh fruits, and with them being palynivores in the wild, foods like pollen and fruits are needed to keep them healthy.
Temperature:
These roaches breed and grow best when kept anywhere from 75-85F°. Tropical species can be kept warm year round.
Nymphs of some temperate species/strains (especially from China) need a late Fall-Winter diapause to mature properly the following Spring. Good diapause temps only need to be in the 60-65F° range for most species it seems.
Breeding/Life cycle:
Adult Eucorydia typically live for 2-3 months, with males of some species living half as long as females. Females lay tiny oothecae once or twice a week, containing 6-9 eggs inside on average. The ooths take around 2 months to hatch, and the resulting nymphs take 7-10 months to mature, all depending on temps and whether they need a diapause or not.
While the nymphs take quite a long time to mature, it's worth it to see the beautiful, yet short lived adults! And eventually, once the colony reaches a decent size, there should be some generation overlap, which means you'll be seeing adults in the enclosure year round.
Breeding/Life cycle:
Adult Eucorydia typically live for 2-3 months, with males of some species living half as long as females. Females lay tiny oothecae once or twice a week, containing 6-9 eggs inside on average. The ooths take around 2 months to hatch, and the resulting nymphs take 7-10 months to mature, all depending on temps and whether they need a diapause or not.
While the nymphs take quite a long time to mature, it's worth it to see the beautiful, yet short lived adults! And eventually, once the colony reaches a decent size, there should be some generation overlap, which means you'll be seeing adults in the enclosure year round.
Species notes:
Eucorydia dasytoides:
The largest Eucorydia species, with multiple geographic variations or "forms". Some of the forms from Central/Northern mainland China need winter diapauses, while those from Southern mainland China and Taiwan don't. Rather prolific when kept optimally.
Eucorydia forceps:
A tropical species that seems to be rather hardy and prolific. Males are quite short lived compared to females. No diapause needed.
Eucorydia linglong:
A pretty species from temperate China, requires a diapause for the subadult nymphs to mature in the Spring. Enjoys high heat in the summer for optimal breeding though.
Eucorydia westwoodi:
A species with absolutely stunning adult coloration, and a larger size than most other cultured Eucorydia spp.. Care is typical for the genus, and the only strain in culture ATM comes from Yunnan, China, and thus likely requires a mild winter diapause.
Some adults from my culture have been maturing before the winter diapause period however, so we may be able to break the diapause need on this strain.
Eucorydia yasumatsui:
The smallest, yet most common Eucorydia in culture. Adults are a beautiful solid blue color, and males aren't super short lived compared to the females. Tropical, doesn't need a diapause, and quite prolific and hardy.
