A gallon container will work well for a starter colony, these roaches aren't the fastest breeders, so it will take them a while to outgrow a container of that size (a 5 gallon bin works well for a permanent enclosure for most species). Width is more important than height, as they aren't very arboreal in any point of their life, (though they may appreciate some vertically slanted hides). Adults can climb smooth surfaces, nymphs can not, but a tight fitting lid is recommended nonetheless.
An inch or so of substrate such as coconut fiber, potting soil, sphagnum peat, etc. should be provided. While not absolutely necessary, they will appreciate it if the substrate is topped with sphagnum moss, cypress mulch, bark chips, leaf litter, etc., mainly to give the smaller nymphs lots of cover. Plenty of hides such as bark pieces, eggcrates, or paper towel rolls should be provided. I've noticed that nymphs really like hiding under partially buried hides for some reason.
This genus generally likes fairly humid but not wet conditions, a humidity gradient is recommended, or just let the entire enclosure start to dry out just a tad between waterings. They prefer moderate to high ventilation, the air shouldn't become excessively humid and stagnant. Again, if the top layer of substrate dries out a little bit in between mistings, that's OK, and they may even prefer that, so long as the lower layers or a corner of the enclosure stay humid at all times. But the entire substrae should never be allowed to become actually soggy/wet.
Diet:
Dog/cat/chick feed, fruits and veggies work well for this genus, and they have a particular fondness for fruits, especially apple.
Temperature:
This genus breeds best when kept in the 75-85F° range. Temperate Chinese spp. may require a winter diapause.
Breeding/Life cycle:
Adults live approximately 4-8 months, with males dying first. Females give birth to small litters of 8-15 nymphs at a time (depending on the species), the first gestation period normally takes around 2-3 months under optimal conditions. After the first litter they may produce up to one litter of nymphs per month, until they lose their reproductive ability. The resulting nymphs take around 4-8 months to mature, depending on the species, temperatures, etc..
This genus is quite sensitive to overstimulation from too many springtails being present in the enclosure, such as Coecobrya, Entomobrya, Willowsia, and don't like other pest infestations either.
Most species can handle mild to severe frass/body buildups (especially if conditions are on the drier side), however if conditions get very dirty, or even mildly dirty but very humid, die offs can follow. So, substrate should be replaced every year or so, however long it takes for it to become frass filled and degraded.
They are also extremely susceptible to entomophagus fungi and protein hungry Trichoderma, so be sure to sterilize all hides and substrates that were collected outdoors.
Species Notes:
Species Notes:
Paranauphoeta annulata (Ringed Assassin Mimic):
New to culture, hailing from Hainan Island, China. These are a large Paranauphoeta, and seem to be quite similar in care to P.formosana. Females usually give birth to 15 nymphs per litter.
Paranauphoeta formosana (Formosan Assassin Mimic):
Perhaps the largest Paranauphoeta in culture, these beauties are also quite prolific, giving birth to an average of 15 babies per brood. Excessive humidity can cause severe delays in reproduction, as well as die offs.
Paranauphoeta lyrata (Lyre Assassin Mimic):
Probably the smallest of the Paranauphoeta in culture, but also the hardiest, probably the best beginner species from the genus. Prefers semi-humid conditions, broods are small (8 nymphs on average), but frequent.
Paranauphoeta rufipes (Red-footed Assassin Mimic):
Formerly known as "P.discoidalis", which is a synonym for P.rufipes. A small, glossy species with striking coloration, prefers relatively high humidity but good airflow. Seems hardy at first, but is prone to severe colony crashes if conditions become suboptimal, crashed which can be hard to recover from.
