Housing:
These types of diminutive roaches should be started out in a fairly small enclosures preferably higher than it is wide, nothing bigger than a gallon jar. 16 oz delis and half gallon containers from the Dollar Tree are my personal favorites. Once their numbers rise you can house them in something larger, but don't overdo it, as smaller nymphs can have a hard time finding food in a very spacious enclosure. Since all life stages of these species climb very well, and are small enough to slip through tiny cracks, their lid will need to be airtight, and ventilation should be provided in the form of microscreen, or a LOT of pinholes.
These types of diminutive roaches should be started out in a fairly small enclosures preferably higher than it is wide, nothing bigger than a gallon jar. 16 oz delis and half gallon containers from the Dollar Tree are my personal favorites. Once their numbers rise you can house them in something larger, but don't overdo it, as smaller nymphs can have a hard time finding food in a very spacious enclosure. Since all life stages of these species climb very well, and are small enough to slip through tiny cracks, their lid will need to be airtight, and ventilation should be provided in the form of microscreen, or a LOT of pinholes.
A very thin layer of silicone oil also works wonders to keep them from getting out of their enclosure, but definitely only use it around the upper rim of the enclosure, and don't over do it. Small nymphs can easily drown in a thick layer of silicone oil or other similar barriers.
The substrate should be a thin layer of coconut fiber or something similar, and plenty of hides in the form of leaf litter, vertically slanted bark pieces, corrugated cardboard, and maybe small "roach-huts" should be provided. These species prefer a bit of height to their setup, while they will hide in ground level leaf litter, they prefer resting in between vertically slanted bark hides, or even on the lid and upper walls of the enclosure.
Many (but not all) of these species prefer high humidity, but all of them need at least a moderate level of ventilation, as stuffy, humid air can make colonies of even the most humidity living species sickly, and greatly shorten adult lifespans. Additionally, small nymphs can drown in condensation. So moderate to high amounts of lid and cross ventilation are highly recommended. Be careful though, as you don't want them drying out too much in between waterings, that can prove to be a fatal mistake for certain species. Also make sure your ventilation holes aren't big enough for tiny hatchlings to escape from, some of these species have first instars only a millimeter long!
Since these roaches spend a lot of time near the lid, can often fly as adults and in general are fairly skittish, it may prove useful to have a hole or two cut out in the sides of their enclosure for maintenance, preferably big enough to remove old food and such with tongs. These holes can be plugged up with a sponge or something similar, and can prove quite useful for feeding and watering your colony, as well as removing uneaten food without the need to open up the lid.
Diet:
Dog/cat/chick feed, fruits, veggies, and pollen/artificial pollen work great for their staple diet, most species aren't very picky when it comes to food. Just be sure to remove leftovers every few days, as tiny nymphs can get tangled up in mold strands from uneaten food, and these tiny roaches can be very sensitive to mite infestations and large springtail populations too.
I suggest using small milk or juice caps as food bowls for these species, and if your enclosure is pretty large, you may need more than one food bowl, to make sure the small nymphs can find food when they need to. Place food alongside corners of the enclosure, or other high traffic areas of the setup for optimal results.
Temperature:
Most species seem to breed best at temperatures from 74-85F°, but many will breed at slightly lower temps as well.
Breeding/Life cycle:
Adults are normally short lived, only living a few months in general, but ooths hatch fast and nymphs are often very fast growing too. Adults of most species are quite prolific, and if set up properly a lot of these species do have feeder potential for small, climbing predatory species.
Many species are very sensitive to grain mite and some soil mite infestations, and can be sensitive to large numbers of certain springtails like Coecobrya, Entomobrya and Willowsia spp. (however, healthy colonies of most Pseudophyllodromids can usually outcompete springtails). Isopods and cleaner beetles would likely wipe them out even faster. The only microfauna that seem very compatible with these roaches are certain predatory mites, small silver springtails and some other tiny, inconspicuous springtail species, all of which will help keep nasty mite species at bay and help keep fungal growth to a minimum.
Most Pseudophyllodromiinae are very sensitive to lapses in care, overly filthy enclosures, pests, fungal pathogens, drying out, and stuffy/stagnant air. As such I recommend them to dedicated enthusiasts that are willing to pay close attention to these tiny little roaches. They aren't incredibly hard to keep, but the margin for error on some species is practically nonexistent, and culture crashes can be a common occurrence even for the easier ones (though they'll usually bounce back just fine with a bit of babying).
That being said, if kept properly they can be prolific enough to use as occasional feeders for tiny predators, and the ornate patterning on the nymphs and adults of many species in this family are criminally underrated IMO!
The substrate should be a thin layer of coconut fiber or something similar, and plenty of hides in the form of leaf litter, vertically slanted bark pieces, corrugated cardboard, and maybe small "roach-huts" should be provided. These species prefer a bit of height to their setup, while they will hide in ground level leaf litter, they prefer resting in between vertically slanted bark hides, or even on the lid and upper walls of the enclosure.
Many (but not all) of these species prefer high humidity, but all of them need at least a moderate level of ventilation, as stuffy, humid air can make colonies of even the most humidity living species sickly, and greatly shorten adult lifespans. Additionally, small nymphs can drown in condensation. So moderate to high amounts of lid and cross ventilation are highly recommended. Be careful though, as you don't want them drying out too much in between waterings, that can prove to be a fatal mistake for certain species. Also make sure your ventilation holes aren't big enough for tiny hatchlings to escape from, some of these species have first instars only a millimeter long!
Since these roaches spend a lot of time near the lid, can often fly as adults and in general are fairly skittish, it may prove useful to have a hole or two cut out in the sides of their enclosure for maintenance, preferably big enough to remove old food and such with tongs. These holes can be plugged up with a sponge or something similar, and can prove quite useful for feeding and watering your colony, as well as removing uneaten food without the need to open up the lid.
Diet:
Dog/cat/chick feed, fruits, veggies, and pollen/artificial pollen work great for their staple diet, most species aren't very picky when it comes to food. Just be sure to remove leftovers every few days, as tiny nymphs can get tangled up in mold strands from uneaten food, and these tiny roaches can be very sensitive to mite infestations and large springtail populations too.
I suggest using small milk or juice caps as food bowls for these species, and if your enclosure is pretty large, you may need more than one food bowl, to make sure the small nymphs can find food when they need to. Place food alongside corners of the enclosure, or other high traffic areas of the setup for optimal results.
Temperature:
Most species seem to breed best at temperatures from 74-85F°, but many will breed at slightly lower temps as well.
Breeding/Life cycle:
Adults are normally short lived, only living a few months in general, but ooths hatch fast and nymphs are often very fast growing too. Adults of most species are quite prolific, and if set up properly a lot of these species do have feeder potential for small, climbing predatory species.
Many species are very sensitive to grain mite and some soil mite infestations, and can be sensitive to large numbers of certain springtails like Coecobrya, Entomobrya and Willowsia spp. (however, healthy colonies of most Pseudophyllodromids can usually outcompete springtails). Isopods and cleaner beetles would likely wipe them out even faster. The only microfauna that seem very compatible with these roaches are certain predatory mites, small silver springtails and some other tiny, inconspicuous springtail species, all of which will help keep nasty mite species at bay and help keep fungal growth to a minimum.
Most Pseudophyllodromiinae are very sensitive to lapses in care, overly filthy enclosures, pests, fungal pathogens, drying out, and stuffy/stagnant air. As such I recommend them to dedicated enthusiasts that are willing to pay close attention to these tiny little roaches. They aren't incredibly hard to keep, but the margin for error on some species is practically nonexistent, and culture crashes can be a common occurrence even for the easier ones (though they'll usually bounce back just fine with a bit of babying).
That being said, if kept properly they can be prolific enough to use as occasional feeders for tiny predators, and the ornate patterning on the nymphs and adults of many species in this family are criminally underrated IMO!
Species accounts:
Aglaopteryx gemma:
A pretty hardy and easy to keep species, a good introduction into Pseudophyllodromiinae. Does best kept fairly humid, though letting the upper layers of the enclosure dry out between waterings is fine. In fact, drying out the ooths for a couple weeks and then wetting them again can cause them to hatch faster, though they'll hatch in 3-4 months kept humid consistently. Adults live 4-5 months, and attach their ooths to bark and leaf litter. Nymphs take 4-6 months to mature depending on the temperature.
Balta notulata & B.vilis:
Prefers at least half the enclosure be kept humid, can take higher humidity if well ventilated. Adults of both species live around 3-4 months, and females produce many oothecae, which only seem to take 1-2 months to hatch and are usually adhered to bark/leaf litter. Nymphs of both species can mature within 4 months under optimal conditions. Both seem to be pretty easy to breed in my experience, and could potentially be used as occasional feeders under the right conditions!
Cariblatta lutea & C.minima:
Prefer high humidity. Adults of both species live for approximately 3-4 months, with males dying first. Females lay tiny ooths which they either adhere to dead leaves and bark, or bury in the substrate. The oothecae only take about two months to hatch, and the resulting nymphs are TINY!!! They take around 3-4 months to mature if kept warm enough. Quite sensitive to pests and filth buildups.
Chorisoneura parishi:
Prefers a mostly dry setup with, with a quarter to a third of the setup kept humid. High ventilation levels very important, and high heat is appreciated. Adults live 3-4 months, ooths hatch in 1-2 months, and nymphs mature in 4-5 months under optimal conditions. Ooths are usually adhered to leaf litter, bark, or on the sides/lid of the enclosure. Extremely prolific if set up correctly.
Chorisoneura texensis:
Prefers semi-humid setup with half the enclosure kept humid, and it's important that they're given lots of ventilation. Adults live for approximately 2-3 months, with males dying first. Females lay tiny ooths which they either adhere to their hides, or directly onto the enclosure walls, (as such they may be confused with Phorid fly pupae). The oothecae only take about 1 month to hatch, and the resulting nymphs are TINY!!! They take around 4-5 months to mature. VERY sensitive to lapses in care, stuffy air, and large numbers of springtails, mites and other microfauna. Some strains need a winter diapause as large nymphs, otherwise they won't breed well (at least not past one generation).
Euthlastoblatta abortiva:
One of the most beautiful US natives IMO, and fairly easy to breed. Prefers semi-humid conditions but doesn't seem heavily affected by humidity fluctuations on either side of the spectrum. High ventilation and heat is preferred. Ooths take a couple months to hatch, and nymphs mature in around 3-4 months.
Euthlastoblatta diaphana:
Prefers humid to semi-humid conditions. A very pretty and prolific species, though small nymphs are super fragile. Adults live 4-5 months on average with males dying first. Ooths are buried and sometimes adhered to hides, and hatch after around 2 months. Nymphs take 3-4 months to mature under optimal conditions.
Euthlastoblatta sp. "Everglades, FL":
Very similar in appearance and care to E.diaphana, prefers humid to semi-humid conditions. Like diaphana their small nymphs are quite fragile. Adults live 4-5 months on average with males dying first. Ooths are buried and sometimes adhered to hides, and hatch after 3-4 months.
Latiblattella rehni:
Prefers humid conditions, good ventilation important. An extremely skittish, arboreal species that runs upwards at the slightest disturbance. Adults live for approximately 3-4 months, with males dying first. Females lay very thin oothecae which they usually adhere to bark or dead leaves. The oothecae only take about 2-3 months to hatch, and the resulting nymphs take around 4-5 months to mature if kept warm enough, though there can be some staggered growth rates in this species. Quite sensitive to filth buildups, as well as prolific springtails and/or mites.
Latiblattella lucifrons:
Prefers semi-humid to dry conditions, with only a quarter to a third of the setup kept humid. Lots of ventilation is a must. Adults live for approximately 3-5 months, with males dying first. Females lay thin oothecae which they usually adhere to bark or dead leaves. The oothecae only take about 2-3 months to hatch, and the resulting nymphs take around 4-6 months to mature if kept warm enough.
Margattea nimbata:
Prefers humid conditions but doesn't appear especially picky. Adults seem to live 4-5 months on average, with ooths taking 1-2 months to hatch. Ooths seem to be mostly buried. A pretty prolific species that seems hardy enough, though probably doesn't like lapses in care or large numbers of pests. Not terribly skittish and actually very calm in demeanor compared to most species in this family.
Margattea cf. bisignata "Macao":
Prefers semi-humid conditions, and high airflow is a must. Adults live 4-5 months on average, their ooths are adhered to bark and leaf litter and hatch in 1-2 months. Nymphs take 3-5 months to mature depending on the temperature. A very arboreal species that seems to get along well with some larger roach species. Pretty sensitive to stuffy air, but also doesn't like bone dry conditions (oothecae especially will shrivel up and die if kept too dry).
Neoblattella detersa:
Prefers humid to semi-humid conditions. Adults live 3-4 months on average with males dying first. Ooths hatch after around a month, and nymphs take 3-4 months to mature under optimal conditions. Quite a prolific and active species.
Neoblattella sp. "Miami, FL":
Essentially the same as detersa in care, and is similar to that species in appearance. Prefers humid to semi-humid conditions. Adults live 3-4 months on average. Ooths hatch after a month or so, and the resulting nymphs take 3-4 months to mature under optimal conditions.
Plectoptera poeyi:
Prefers humid to semi-humid conditions, but high airflow is a must. Adults live 3-5 months, with males dying first. Females lay lots of ooths and adhere them to bark and leaf litter, which dry out quite easily. If kept humid and warm, they will hatch after 1 month or so. Nymphs mature in 3-4 months under optimal conditions. Leaf litter, especially oak leaf litter seems to be a favorite hide, along with (oddly enough), crumpled paper towels. Fruits seem to be among their favorite foods. All life stages are incredibly sensitive to large numbers of springtails, as well as other microfauna.
I have a video showing my setup for this species here.
Hopefully this caresheet proves useful for those who aim to culture these fragile, but beautiful little roaches!
